Craven Cottage stands happily on the River Thames in West London's Fulham — a football ground as attuned to character and to history as to sport. Home of Fulham Football Club since 1896, this picturesque stadium has seen over a century of triumph and loss, forward march and heritage. To dig up why Craven Cottage is England's beloved stadium, it's sensible to find out what kind of place it is, how…